What is Trad Climbing?

Trad climbing is a popular form of climbing that can feel adventurous at any crag. 'Trad' is short for 'traditional.' Trad climbing is the more traditional form of rock climbing. Originally, trad climbing was just 'climbing.'

After multiple climbing styles evolved, such as bouldering and sport climbing, trad climbing was named. Therefore, when somebody asks what kind of climbing you like, you can further niche yourself into this already niche sport.

So, What is Trad Climbing?

Trad climbing uses removable protection (pro) to ascend a rockface. As the climber ascends, they place their pro into weaknesses, such as cracks and seams. If on a multi-pitch climb, the follower will remove the pro as they climb to be used on the next pitch. If single-pitch climbing, the climber will remove the pro when lowering.

Trad climbing is popular because it was the original form of free climbing and because it can take you to places where bolts aren't. Many wilderness areas don't allow power drilling, which is the easiest way to establish a sport climb, so many mountains only have trad routes.

Embarking on a trad climb is a liberating experience, devoid of the pressure to reach the next bolt. In trad climbing, you dictate the pace and strategy. Will you secure every possible spot or take the risk of running out? The decision is entirely yours, adding a thrilling element of control to the adventure.

Trad climbing's allure also stems from its pristine nature. By using removable protection, the only trace a climber leaves is a smudge of chalk. Unlike sport climbing, no bolts mar the rock face, preserving its natural beauty. This aspect instills a sense of responsibility and respect for the environment in trad climbers.

What Gear is Used in Trad Climbing?

Traditional climbing requires a whole host of gear besides your typical belay device, harness, rope, and rock shoes. Trad climbers use two types of protection: active and passive.

Active protection: With moving parts.

Cams or spring-loaded camming devices (SLCD): A uniquely designed tool that features lobes to grip the sides of a crack in a rock. The climber pulls the trigger to squeeze the device to its smallest size, then inserts it into a crack and releases the trigger. The cam expands to make contact with the rock.

A good cam placement should have as much contact as possible on the lobes, typically around the middle of the cam's range.

Passive protection: Without moving parts.

Nuts, also known as stoppers and hexes, are chunks of metal wedged into the rock near a constriction. Once slotted in, the climber gives a couple of tugs in the direction they want the pro's force to hold. This sets the piece so it is ready to be clipped to.

Tricam: This cool piece of gear can be used as an active or passive pro. It's designed to be used like a nut and slotted into a crack, but it features a small horn that can catch and act like a cam.

More Gear Used in Trad Climbing

Trad climbing can feature some wander-y routes, so minimizing rope drag, which is the friction caused by the rope running over rock edges and corners, is essential. Unless the climber is on a splitter, straight crack, they'll need to extend their pieces to reduce rope drag and make the climb smoother.

Once the climber has inserted their pro into a rock, they clip a quickdraw and rope to the quickdraw.

To minimize rope drag, trad climbers use alpine draws. An alpine draw is a quickdraw made with a 60cm sling. The sling acts as the dogbone and can be extended to keep the rope straighter.

Where Can I Trad Climb?

You can trad climbing all over! Considering it's the oldest style of climbing, there are trad routes throughout many climbing areas. They may see less traffic than a popular sport crag, so be prepared to get dirty!

Some popular trad climbing destinations include Indian Creek in Utah, Red Rocks in Nevada, City of Rocks in Idaho, Joshua Tree in California, the New River Gorge in West Virginia, and more!

How Can I Start Trad Climbing?

The most effective way to venture into trad climbing is to seek guidance from seasoned climbers. Consider taking classes with a local guiding company or learning from a 'trad dad,' a passionate trad climber who is usually eager to share the 'true' essence of climbing. These experiences will not only teach you the technicalities but also instill a sense of camaraderie and community in your climbing journey.

Another way to get into trad climbing is to find a 'trad dad.' A trad dad is a climber who loves trad climbing above all else and is usually excited to show others the 'true' way to climb rocks. They often have a wealth of experience and knowledge about trad climbing and can be a great mentor for beginners.